Why This Watch Matters

Here we have the highly sought after Zenith A386, featuring the original El Primero caliber with the most coveted configuration of dial and case.

The Full Story

The reference A386 is synonymous with the launch of the groundbreaking El Primero chronograph caliber in 1969. Over the next several years, just 2,500 examples were produced with a tri-color sub-register dial; you can see on the example here that this design remains incredibly striking today. The 38mm case is another point of attraction in this model, as its angular lugs manage to bring a novel look to a round watch. And of course, the self-winding El Primero caliber is a convincing argument in itself; after all, it was one of the first automatic calibers, and beat at a much higher rate than its opponents, affording higher chronograph precision. It is not an exaggeration to say that the A386 is one of the most iconic wristwatches of the 20th century.

The Fine Print

Maker: Zenith
Model: El Primero Chronograph
Reference: A386
Year: Early 1970s
Case No: 707D162
Material: Stainless steel
Dimensions: 38mm diameter; 13mm thickness
Sapphire Crystal:
Lume: Yes, tritium
Caliber: Automatic movement chronograph El Primero caliber 3019
Bracelet/Strap: HODINKEE Smooth Black Calfskin Strap
Lug Width: 19mm
Box/Papers: No

What we Love and What You Should Know

The dial is stunning; the three contrasting sub-registers are free of defects. The indexes show a dark patina consistent with that of the handset, although the lume on the chronograph seconds hand is partly chipped. The case has superficial scratches, but has kept the original profile of the faceted lugs that make it wear so nicely on the wrist.